China: The Verdict Is In

by Serena Wu on December 8, 2009

The Good

  • Public transportation is efficient and very affordable. Buses cost 2 yuan (RMB) each trip (~28¢) and run frequently, while the metro costs 2-9 yuan each way (28¢ – $1.28), depending on the distance. The D train from Hangzhou to Shanghai was 54 yuan (<$8), and another (slower) train from Shanghai back to Xiaoshan was 26 yuan (<$4). A 30min taxi ride from the airport to hotel was 85 yuan (~$12).
  • Construction is happening everywhere! Infrastructure is improving and high rises are popping up all over the place. (If fact, there is extremely loud construction happening right outside of our hotel room window…) Architecture firms with projects in Asia should be thriving.
  • The West Lake in Hangzhou is beautiful, as with a lot of the new architecture in Shanghai. If I were a real painter or photographer, I’d move to Hangzhou and paint the four seasons repeatedly (pictures to come at the end of this post).

The Bad

  • Living costs are not that low. Rent in downtown Shanghai is equally absurd (and comparable to San Francisco). Food can be cheap (street vendors, hole-in-the-walls, supermarkets, convenience stores, etc.), unless you eat at the New World Plaza, where a dinner set at any one restaurant was 30-50 USD. Ridics. Shopping mall items cost about the same…maybe even more if they’re American brands.
  • Public transportation during rush hour is pure chaos. You are always standing with someone literally spooning you from behind…while you offend the person in front of you. People will push and shove hard without saying “excuse me”.
  • It is f!cking cold in December (but apparently a “warm winter” this year). At night outside, I wore two long-sleeved thermals underneath a knit sweater, underneath a hooded sweatshirt, beneath a wool coat. Raising one arm to hold on to the handrail was pretty difficult.

The Ugly

  • People are rude as hell. While I was in line buying tickets at the Hangzhou train station (which btw has no English signs or translations of any sort…), a lady from the end of the line marched up to the front and started yelling at the group of girls in front of me for taking “too long” (maybe 5min max). She stormed back after her final words, “討厭”! Later on, I asked the young gal managing a baggage check booth how much it would cost per luggage. She mumbled something like “ten dollars” without even looking up, so I asked her kindly, “Ten?” and she just glared at me then went back to her reading. While sitting in the waiting room, the lady a few chairs to my left cracked nuts loudly and threw all the shells and all of her nasty trash on the floor nonchalantly. On the train, people talked loudly on their cell phones or to each other, played card games with rowdy arguments and bouts of laughter, slurped cup noodles and smoked inside (in your face)—courtesy is apparently a foreign concept. Pedestrians also never have the right of way, and I’ve been cursed at quite a few times for simply crossing a bike lane or a crosswalk during a green light.
  • The socioeconomic gap between the rich and the poor is extreme and highly unsettling. At the train stations, I saw all sorts of people…people from the countryside carrying sacks on sticks, merchants with giant boxes of who knows what, students with backpacks, businessmen with suitcases, you name it. A beggar with her child stopped in front of each person in the waiting room and placed her cup on our shoes as she mumbled, “Food for baby…” On the train, a woman with burnt hands led a blind man through the halls as they begged for money (before scuttling off right before the train pulled away from the station). At the high end shopping malls and plazas, people walked around with Burberry scarves, LV handbags, Chanel glasses, and so on. At these places, I also saw a lot of foreigners. At major tourist attractions, street vendors particularly targeted (more like harassed) people who didn’t look Asian (not me) and people with very conspicuous cameras (me).
  • Political propaganda still exists. A man was selling collectible Mao stamps on the train and went on and on with a microphone or megaphone about Mao’s contributions, how that related to the train we were on, how Taiwan will “return” to China one day and hopefully buy Mao stamps too…I mean wtf?! The stamps sold fast too. On TV, I kept seeing highly skewed news reporting about Taiwan’s local elections and political disputes (and how “ridiculous” the DPP was being…)—Fox news aiint nothing in comparison. The Great Firewall is equally ridiculous. I haven’t checked Facebook or Tumblr in five days!

The verdict: with all of that said and done, I don’t see myself working in China, so ignore all of my indecisive China posts since the beginning of October. Conferences, freelance projects, design competitions—we’re all on again? (Please?!) As Ben said, “It’s good that I came to visit and stopped being indecisive.” (btw Ben, your blog is blocked.)

Now back to the good stuff…with pictures this time!

Hangzhou: a leisurely respite.

a tea village

a tea village

some serious greenery

some serious greenery

orange leaves in December

orange leaves in December

boats on West Lake

boats on West Lake

an endless stroll

an endless stroll

Shanghai: a serious clash of architecture.

I mean a serious clash of architecture, right?!

I meant what I meant by "a serious clash".

more clashing (but beautiful) architecture

and more...

this is not considered "a lot" of people...

this is not considered "a lot" of people...

more street scenes...

more street scenes...

the mascot dude w/old architecture (which used to be someone's garden/yard...)

the mascot dude w/old architecture (which used to be someone's garden/yard...)

YOU ARE LOOKING AT THE BIRTHPLACE OF XIAO LONG BAO'S...

YOU ARE LOOKING AT THE BIRTHPLACE OF XIAO LONG BAO'S...

mom's in line!!

mom's in line!!

people eating xiao long bao's on the steps

people eating xiao long bao's on the steps/sidewalk

My cousin takes a bite!

My cousin takes a bite! Mmm...

distractions

distractions

The famous skyline!

The famous skyline!

...and then there's this

...and then there's this

new vs. old...

new vs. old...

massive construction projects...

massive construction projects...

I'm on a boat!

I'm on a boat!

more construction...

more construction...

iconic towers

iconic towers

malls with lots of bling

malls with lots of bling

holiday spirit...

holiday spirit...

so cheesy yet so pretty...

so cheesy yet so pretty...

Perhaps I’ll miss China…just a tiny bit.

  • Different point of view from that post. Interesting to say the least.
  • That first picture you have of Shanghai, if I remember correctly, my maternal grandparents were married in that brown hotel building. Haha.

    I can't wait to see all the Shanghai World Expo pavillions. :D
    I hope you come back for that.

  • !! my aunt was married in that hotel as well and that's why we visited! They changed the interior apparently
  • I agree with your verdict, I could only see China as a vacation spot or potential business expansion. I visit fairly often so I'm used to the rudeness, pollution, and great firewall, but even taking those things out, since you'd be doing basically the same thing in either area (i'd think) it makes more sense to be making more money in the US with more growth opportunities. But I did enjoy my summer internship in Shenzhen.

    I really miss China now, for its ridiculous cheap and delicious food, cheap yet stylish clothes (compared to the US), cheap travel to all the pretty places. Maybe it's because I was born there though? Hope you had fun though :)
  • I did have fun! I'm pretty sure I'll be back as well, just not for anything permanent :)
  • I believe this is just evolution. To demand respect or "courtesy" on a world that is decaying is not necesarilyt a right. We have to accept what we find and what we can do with that if that keeps us alive. I wish the best for the people of China, because since the whole world is going down on virus atacks, economical crisis, war, other deseases as the swine flu, and god knows what kind of new trheat, they are one of our strongest hopes to keep this race alive. Nevermind the lady throwing stuff on the ground and the people playing cards on a train. I wish we all can keep playing cards wherever we´ll be...
  • Amy
    It's great fun to read about your adventures in China and I love your photographs!
    You should write a guide to traveling in China on your blog. Travel tips for female ABCs in China. I'm sure a lot of people would find it useful. I certainly would since I'm going to travel through China in April! I wasn't planning on visiting Hangzhou, but after looking at your photos, I may add it to my list!
  • Thanks Amy! I doubt 5 days of random wandering makes me qualified enough to write a travel guide, but I'd say, being female doesn't make much of a difference (as in people won't respect you more, let you step on the bus first, open doors for you, etc.) but being ABC makes a huge difference because street vendors in popular tourist attractions really like to pick on people who look like foreigners. Also, knowing how to speak Mandarin and read a little is a huge plus! The locals I've met couldn't understand any English, and public transportation stops/train stations, don't have much English either :\. I stared at the train sched for quite a while before figuring out which ticket to buy, lol

    but overall, Hangzhou and Shanghai feel really safe, buses get you around almost anywhere, and it doesn't hurt to ask for directions in Chinese :)

    have fun in April!!!!
  • mmm, xiaolongbaos. your cousin is too cute! come home. :)
  • will be back on the 24th! (are you going somewhere this winter? like...Taiwan LOL)
  • really rapid development, skipping phases and going into decadent affluence...scary scary scary. nice to know whats going on. beautiful post as always. long time reader, first time poster. but i felt like coming out of the blue to say you are awesome and amazing and keep doing what you do, being "nontraditional" and all, because you are valuable to the world. your websites and blogs give me laughy moments about life and are serious ethno observations. being on the internets is hard, its like throwing your heart at the world and being like "oh this is my work!!!" and most people don't bother to give feedback, not knowing how important it is.

    keep up the good work!
  • Hi Carrie, thanks for the heart-warming comment! I'll respond to your fb request as soon as I get out of China and away from the Great Fire Wall, lol :)
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